OK settle down kiddies. I'm not talking of putting in a new motor because the old one is running wrong. It's because the current motor is a conglomeration of unknown parts, wrong parts (ie aluminum pushrods with dual valve springs) mysteries (ie why couldn't Rick install the SKAT rockers. He couldn't figure them out because something aint right) It's typical volkswerck garbage. That being said Bob, I am not kicking it to the curb and waisting money. I want to put a fresh, reliable power plant (that I know what's in it) in the car and rebuild the 1835 for another project.
It's the very reason I still have aluminum push rods in it (You were screaming at me to get rid of them in October!). I'm not going to have you cut a set of $75 pushrods for me to put into this motor because the rockers need to be replaced and when I do that they'll need a different length. I can't put the rockers in now cause the tops of the valves are so buggered up from the current rockers that they'll ruin the new ones. I value your input Bob...don't ever stop. I just wanted you to see where I'm coming from (love
So if it seems like I'm ignoring some very serious signs...I am, but only because I am SURE that they are not the cause of the current problem and that's what I need to fix right now. The reason that you are alarmed is because of my sensationalizing (as usual...sorry) my story by putting in more observations of what a POS my motor is. We'll all get to see the insides of this thing when we do the "Blue Meanie Engine Rebuild" video series!
Now back to our regularly scheduled program...
Check gap at pertronix in distributor..
I have to admit I made a mistake on this Pertronix thing... I had Rick install it, and as a result I don't know jack about it OR how it works. I should have done it myself and I would have a better grasp. So I guess I'll read the installation manual so I can follow Pat's advice to check the gap.
Stay Tuned... I'm going out to bypass the electrical system